Kathleen Hudson Column for January 12, 2003
         "From San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico"


I'm back in my favorite Internet Cafe on Hidalgo. Hugo says hello. I've just
finished an evening with my group at the house of Tim and Louise Hazell.
Tim, a Renaissance man in all ways, talked to us of art as we looked at his
paintings, played several musical instruments for us, and read some of his
latest poetry. He'll be performing at the library theatre here on Friday,
before I leave on Saturday. I'm writing home on Sunday, January 5. You'll be
reading this on Sunday, January 12, the day I arrive back in Texas.

My first group of road warriors who are writing to explore the world has
been a huge success. Thanks to the energy of the Bells and the Hayes, the
interest of the Crums, Joplins, Laughlins and the willingness of Elizabeth
Spencer, we are having the time of our life. Each has written a series of
cards on his or her own experiences; each has already discovered some jewel
to share with the rest of us.

Art Bell, the consummate explorer, has located many of the "hidden"
jewels. We ate at Gombos tonight (three of us), and no one had ever heard of
this great little pizza place that puts a tomato rose on the center of a
pizza covered with avocado slices. I loved the posters of Diego's work and
the single candle reflecting light on our little table. I was so inspired to
be with people who appreciate the undiscovered in life.

Each participant adds a new dimension to this trip. Jim Laughlin, just
doing his assignment for the day, produced the following short piece: "Bird
Flocks Headed West/ Fading Mountain Majesty/ Moon Sliver Watches All."Now
that's a Haiku (with an extra syllable in the last line). Mary Hayes, after
attending a mass in La Parrochia, said, "Old, old man, sitting/Close to his
Lord God, alone/Expecting, waiting." I want to share all the writing with
you, but that must wait.

We have discovered even more scintillating restaurants, interesting roads,
stunning sunsets and fascinating people with many stories to tell. Aldo
moved down from Canada and lives in a big Hacienda outside of town. He knows
the history. Javier just returned from Europe and still plays Flamenco
guitar here. Shema walks her large Great Dane in El Jardin each day. Tim
Hazell will play a concert at the biblioteca. Mariachi's played for us at
the Instituto de Allende on New Year's Eve. We opted for a traditional
Mexican evening with a huge meal, music, folklorico and Salsa. We shared a
table with a family from Spain. When the Salsa started, a beautiful woman
took my hand and asked me to dance. Her husband had a bad back. As we walked (limped) to the dance floor, she told me of her bad knees. Ha! She's half my age and has the same story I do. We did a slower Salsa but enjoyed it. I
have to dance in Mexico.

Staying at the Posada de las Monjas on Canal, we are absorbing even more
Mexican culture through the thick stone walls surrounding this nunnery. I
love my stark room. A place for solace and solitude. Off to Atotonilco this
trip, Guanajuato, then back for some writing. I'm looking forward to a
one-woman show on the life of Anne Sexton. This particular group of road
warriors have unearthed many treasures. Many of these treasures will end up
in the back of Suburbans heading toward the border. Ask Rufus about rugs.
Ask Lea Bell about her new painting (and rugs and jewelry). Ask Bill Crum
about carrying big copper pots up Zacateros street. Ask Mike Joplin about
his poetry. Ah, the questions you could ask!

We gather each morning around a fire in the hotel lobby to share our
writing and create more assignments. We are exploring the world through
writing. Music, the univeral language, is always present. Even now, as I
write, the trance music in the background helps my fingers fly. Tim Hazell
says that each instrument in Meso-American music is considered a voice of a
god. We heard the Collar del Viento tape, sounds of nature providing the
perfect introduction to the indigenous music played by this talented group
of children.

My discovery this time was the joy of sitting in the park and just talking
with people. I realized that when a person shares his or her heart and mind
with another, a certain bond is formed. Bill Taylor, the King of the Jardin,
said it best. "I sit here everyday from about 11 a.m. until 1:00. Then we
decide where to eat. We've lost this aspect of culture in the states.
Sitting, watching and talking are important to human beings." I joined the
boys on the bench (with a few women), and entered some fascinating
conversations.

I also had a wonderful meal at El Pinata, pozole and guacamole, continuing
a conversation with two Americans and Aldo about life in Mexico. Juan Nieto
told us about crossing the border and working in California. Surrealistic to
have an illegal alien ask me if I'd read Steinbeck! He'll be bullfighting
here in a couple of weeks. He is the Tony Navarra of San Miguel, an actor
par excellence.

This column does not allow the space for all of the story. Look for more
installments on "Living Outloud," my tv show at 8:30 p.m. on channel 2 in
Kerrville. Free Leonard and down the road.

Contact Kathleen with questions or comments at kat@maverickbbs.com.
She teaches at Schreiner University and is the director of the Texas
Heritage Music Foundation.

Visit the THMF website:  www.texasheritagemusic.org


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